Tebing
Climbing Hold Types: Jugs, Crimps, Slopers, Pockets, and More
On gym walls and real rock alike, holds come in many shapes. Recognizing the shape helps you choose the grip that is strongest and saves the most strength.
Jugs: the most comfortable holds
A jug is a big, deep hold you can wrap your whole hand around, like a bucket handle. Jugs are the best places to rest, shake out tired arms, or set up a dynamic move.
Crimps and edges: thin lips of rock
A crimp or edge fits only your fingertips. There are three ways to hold one:
- Open hand: fingers almost straight, hanging off the lip. The kindest grip for your tendons.
- Half crimp: finger joints bent about 90 degrees. A strong position that is fairly safe to use often.
- Full crimp: fingers sharply bent with the thumb locked over the index finger. The strongest grip, but the hardest on the tendons and pulleys (tendon sheaths) of your fingers.
Beginners should get used to open hand and half crimp grips and avoid full crimping when their fingers are already tired.
Slopers: domes without an edge
A sloper is rounded with no edge to hook. Its grip comes from palm friction. Tips: open your hand as wide as possible so more skin touches the rock, keep your arm straight, and lower your body so you pull downward rather than outward. Slopers are easier in cool, dry air and much harder when it is humid or hot.
Pockets: holes in the rock
A pocket is a hole that fits one to three fingers. Use your strongest fingers, usually the middle and ring fingers for a two-finger pocket. One-finger pockets (monos) put a lot of load on a single tendon, so treat them with care and never force them.
Pinches
A pinch is squeezed between the thumb on one side and the fingers on the other. It trains thumb strength, which is easy to neglect.
Underclings, sidepulls, and gastons
- Undercling: gripped from below with the palm facing up. Most effective once your body is higher and your feet are pushing up high.
- Sidepull: a hold facing sideways, pulled toward your body while you lean away.
- Gaston: the opposite of a sidepull. You push the hold away with your elbow pointing out, like opening a sliding door.
Volumes
Gym walls often have volumes: large shapes such as triangles or boxes bolted to the wall. You can stand on them, hold them, or both.
Reading holds from the ground
Before you climb, look for white chalk marks: those are the spots other climbers grip most. Notice each hold's angle, size, and texture as well. Then plan which hand will take which hold, so you don't have to switch hands in an awkward spot.
Keeping your fingers healthy
Finger injuries, especially to the pulleys, are among the most common climbing injuries. Warm up your fingers gradually from big holds to small ones, increase training load slowly, and stop if you feel a sharp pain in a finger.
Tebing uses the same hold shapes. Jugs save the most strength, pockets are normal, edges cost a little more, and slopers tire your arms fastest. There are also crumbly flakes that break after you grab them and shiny slippery rock with no chalk marks. Real rock is the same: holds that are rarely used and have no chalk deserve caution.
Safety note: this article is general information. Real rock climbing carries a risk of injury. Learn in person from certified instructors, climbing gym staff, or local clubs and federations (in Indonesia, the FPTI).