Speed Climbing: The Fastest Discipline in Climbing
Speed climbing is the easiest climbing discipline for spectators to follow: two climbers side by side, one start signal, and whoever slaps the button at the top first wins. At world level, a race is over in a few seconds.
The same wall everywhere in the world
In lead and bouldering, the routes are new at every competition, so climbers have to read them on the spot. Speed climbing is the opposite. The wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, slightly overhanging, with every hold set in the same shape and position wherever the competition takes place. That is why times from different events can be compared and world records can be kept.
A speed wall has two identical lanes side by side. Two climbers race at the same time, each in their own lane, on a rope from above (a top rope) controlled by an automatic belay device.
How a race works
- The start signal. Once both climbers are ready, a series of beeps sounds. The clock starts on the last beep. A climber who moves before the signal commits a false start and loses immediately.
- The clock stops at the top when the climber hits the touch pad above their lane. Times are recorded to hundredths, even thousandths, of a second.
- Qualification: each climber runs both lanes, and their best time sets their ranking.
- The finals are head-to-head duels. The winner of each duel moves on until one champion is left. Slipping or falling mid-route almost always means losing.
How fast?
The best men in the world have climbed the 15 meters in under 5 seconds, and the best women in about 6 seconds. For comparison, recreational climbers trying it for the first time usually need anywhere from ten seconds to well over half a minute. Speeds like that are only possible because the route never changes: top climbers have drilled every move hundreds of times.
Indonesia at the top of speed climbing
Speed is the discipline where Indonesia shines brightest. Veddriq Leonardo won the gold medal in men's speed at the Paris 2024 Olympics, Indonesia's first Olympic gold in climbing. Kiromal Katibin is also among the fastest speed climbers in the world. On the women's side, Indonesia has world-class athletes such as Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi.
That success rests on long-term development: many regions of Indonesia have standard speed walls, and the national federation, FPTI, runs speed competitions from regional to national level.
Basic speed technique
- Memorize the sequence. Because the route is fixed, speed climbers work out the best sequence of moves (often called the beta) and repeat it until it is automatic.
- Explosive legs. Leg drive provides most of the upward power. The hands mostly steer and keep momentum.
- Never stop. Every tiny pause costs time. The best climbers flow from hold to hold.
- Skip holds when you can. Top climbers skip some holds near the start. One such shortcut is known as the Tomoa skip, named after Japanese climber Tomoa Narasaki, who popularized it.
- A sharp start. Your reaction to the final beep can decide a close duel.
Want to try it?
Many climbing gyms and clubs have speed walls, some built to competition standard. Start on a top rope or an auto-belay with gym staff supervising, learn to fall safely, and don't chase times until your moves are right.
- Speed mode (the ⚡ Speed button in the menu): a fixed 15 m route that is the same every time. Three beeps, then CLIMB!, with your time recorded to the hundredth of a second.
- A rope from above, like a real competition. A fall means a failed attempt, and you start again from the bottom right away.
- Chase your best-run ghost, compare times on the weekly world ranking, and challenge friends with a link. Tebing's route is designed for the game's controls, not copied from the official competition route.
Safety note: this article is general information. Real rock climbing carries a risk of injury. Learn in person from certified instructors, climbing gym staff, or local clubs and federations (in Indonesia, the FPTI).
Read also
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- Footwork in Rock Climbing: The Secret to Climbing Without Tiring Fast
- Dynos, Deadpoints, and Matching: Moving to Faraway Holds
- Rock Climbing Safety: Helmets, Ropes, Belaying, and Communication
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